4 Days in Kigali

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Lounge at Pili Pili

Day 1: Flight to Kigali + Check in at Pili Pili

There were three of us so we eschewed a traditional hotel in favor of a bed and breakfast-type accommodation. Pili Pili was perfectly delightful – although as a popular restaurant/club, it was also quite loud on some nights. Still, we appreciated the amenities and it was convenient to pop in for breakfast or a snack when we were too pressed for time to go anywhere else.

We settled in and had dinner at Poivre Noir, a Belgian/French restaurant with a great wine selection.

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Inema Arts Center

Day 2: Art + Heaven

For a country that was devastated by political turmoil and genocide less than 30 years ago, Rwanda’s capital is remarkably well-maintained. The roads are clean, the people are friendly, and the city is so safe that you might even call it boring. The vibe almost reminded me of another capital city that is so safe and clean that my love for the absurd and peculiar felt like a stain against a sterile backdrop; so maybe Kigali is the Ottawa of Africa (speaking as someone who has been to precisely two African countries).

It’s not to say that the merits of creative expression are lost on Rwandans. Our first stop was at Inema Arts Center, a gallery and workspace founded by two brothers and self-taught painters. It’s a beautiful space full of contemporary art and even garnered enough interest to warrant coverage by the New York Times.

As a compulsive shopper living in an increasingly overflowing box that I call home, the purchase of souvenirs is out of the question, but I allow myself a painting here and a sculpture there while travelling. This was one of the many times in Rwanda that I wished my suitcase was infinitely larger so that I could bring a few pieces back with me.

Lunch was at Heaven, a restaurant and boutique hotel opened by an American couple who wanted to create a business that also provided vocational training and employment for young adults in Rwanda. There’s a lot of social enterprise in Kigali – it was my reason for being there too.

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4 Days in Kigali